Just In: Ebony Mom Jeans x Fibre Mood
This post is my honest opinion using a pattern I received free of charge from Fibre Mood.
The latest edition of the Fibre Mood magazine is now out which means I get to show you my brand spankin’ new pair of jeans featuring one of the debut patterns, the Ebony Trousers!
The Ebony Trousers are described as “the ultimate pair of ‘mom jeans’”, the recent trendiness of which has baffled me, especially considering that in American culture saying a pair of pants look like “mom jeans” has (rather famously) never really been a compliment.
However when I saw the Ebony pants in the pattern line up I was very intrigued, and having always been of the mindset that one can’t have too many pairs of jeans, I decided to just go for it.
If you’re like me, you might look at the pattern listing and think, “those pants don’t look like any mom jean I’ve ever seen”. Knowing that that slim silhouette on the model would not be the result I’d get on my average figure, I did a little research on how exactly a modern mom jean fits so I’d know what I’m looking for on my own body.
First and foremost, the mom jean is about a high and snug fit in the waist. That should be the tightest part of the pants, and ideally emphasized with a fully tucked in shirt. The hip and bum area typically have more ease, which tapers down the leg. The back pockets are somewhat high and the jeans still have a contoured fit, unlike the straight fit of a boyfriend jean that, while also relaxed in the leg, usually have a more saggy bum. In fact, the center back seam on mom jeans is supposed to creep up between the cheeks a little—a couple current brands even named their revamped mom jeans as “wedgie” or “cheeky” fit!
With those tips, I set out to make my own mom jeans. I chose to use some (non-stretch) denim that was handed down to me from my mom—which really makes this project for me, because she probably bought that denim as a young mom intending to make the then stylish jeans that thirty years later we’re once again wearing with affection (and some irony). Full circle, my friends.
I’m in between sizes on the Fibre Mood size chart and because the jeans are non-stretch I was nervous to take them too small. I ended up erring on the side of caution and going with the larger size, but ended up going back in and taking some width out of the hip and leg. There’s probably not as much ease in the hip as is typical for a pair of mom jeans, but I’m happy with the fit I chose. Quick tangent: I should also mention that the Fibre Mood magazine patterns now have seam allowances—yay for not having to add that in yourself!
I also made my typical adjustments of scooping out the front crotch and lengthening the front crotch length, and removed 3” from the length at the knee. The back pocket placement recommended was too wide set and a little low for my tush, so I moved the pockets in about 4cm and up about 1.5cm as well.
Two things of note that I would change next time are 1) the front pocket bags are on the small side so I’d enlarge those, and 2) the concealed button fly is on the opposite side of the pants. I went over the instructions several times making sure I was doing it right, and even checked my husband’s jeans to see if maybe it was a nod to men’s denim? But sure enough, his fly was the same as my other jeans. The line drawing for the pattern confirms that I did sew the fly as intended and that it is on the opposite side than what is typical for jeans. I tell ya what, that muscle memory was not there the first time I went to button up my jeans! After a few wears I got used to it but in future pairs I would flip the fly to the other side. Despite this, the instructions for assembling the fly might actually be my favorite so far! I found them very easy to follow and the construction was the cleanest I’ve experienced (no cutting in to the seam allowance!), so I’d definitely use their method on other jeans patterns.
Mom jeans are one of those fashion trends that invite some pretty polarizing opinions, but honestly? After making them myself and wearing them for a few days of my real life mom life, I’m kinda on board with them! They’re not what I would’ve normally picked for myself or what people with my figure are told are flattering, but they’re comfortable, I love the waist defining style, and I feel good in them. They’re also probably my most technically well made jeans with gorgeous bar tacks, the most beautiful buttonholes, and, I swear to you, perfect waistband topstitching (from both sides!), so you better believe I’m gonna wear them like crazy.
Where do you stand on the resurgence of this vintage trend? Are you on the mom jean train? Let me know in the comments!
